How to Spend 30 Days in Haida Gwaii, British Columbia with Kids
My original motive for planning a trip to Haida Gwaii with our kids was to reenact the moments of our wildwood, exploring miles and miles of coastline without seeing another soul, the long hike to the Pesuta shipwreck, traversing the boardwalk down to Tow Hill, with giant slugs on a stick, fish and chips from a shack on the beach, foraging for berries in the forest.
As we crossed the water, memories flooded my brain as I made a quick checklist for the things that I wanted the kids to experience. Traipsing through the now Gwaii Hanna protected lands, as a child, where Emily Carr painted her stunning totem pole depictions, charcoal in hand to sketch our own rendition. Hiking to the Pesuta shipwreck. Jumping from tree trunks as large as a house into a pile of bushes below. Foraging for salmon berries and huckleberries if we weren’t ready to go home just yet. All doable, except it’s a bit more complex to visit Gwaii Haanas National Park reserve - compared to when I was a kid.
Getting to Haida Gwaii
We boarded the ferry for the overnight journey after a sixteen hour drive to Prince George - rounding out for a solid twenty-four hour road trip to reenact the wild nature of my childhood for a two week journey. For a more abbreviated travel day, you can hop on a 1.5 hour round trip flight from Vancouver Island (or Sandspit).
Visitors to the island can choose from a day or overnight ferry. If you take the overnight option, spring for the ferry bunks - they’re a moderately comfortable way to make the journey easier. On the eight-hour ferry, you’ll find all the amenities you need, from comfortable seating a children’s play area, to buffets and even an arcade and shops for essentials and souvenirs.
For a family of five, and a vehicle, the cost for the ferry was $590 CAD (return trip) between Prince George and Haida Gwaii.
What area should you stay when visiting Haida Gwaii?
The largest communities on the islands include the Village of Daajing Giids (Queen Charlotte City), HlGaagilda (Skidegate), and Massett, all located on Graham Island, Gwaii Haanas. You can drive between Masset - at the north of the island, to Sandspit, at the south of the island, in two hours, making either option a great home base for an adventure. Masset tends to be on the windier side, where the beaches and climate in the southern part felt more warm, and welcoming.
We chose Masset for the rugged beaches, and the throwback to my childhood adventures, but spent our last two days on the island adventure at the warmer, more southern part of the island. If you have time, I would suggest splitting your time between two parts of the island to reduce the time spent driving in-between.
Things to do in Haida Gwaii with Kids
Explore the Pesuta Shipwreck Trail
Despite being subjected to nearly 100 years of punishing coastal weather, the iconic ship’s bow still juts from the sand exposing weathered wood, various metal implements, and rusted portholes. Presently known by the misspelled name "Pesuta”, this historic shipwreck is both easily accessible and exceptionally fascinating. The Pesuta Shipwreck is a 10km return trek from Haida House.
Find Ammonite Fossils Near Balancing Rock
Just five minutes outside of Skidegate is an incredible beach with balancing rock, ammonite fossils and a swing at the top of the shore. The balancing rock comes from the large bolder left behind from the glacial retreat of the ice age. Near the balancing rock, there’s an impressive ammonite fossil in one of the rocks on the beach.
Haida Heritage Centre at Kay Llnagaay
At Haida Heritage Centre at Kay Llnagaay we celebrate the living culture of the Haida. Through language, art and stories we share our relationship with the land and sea that which shapes, nourishes and sustains us. Kay Llnagaay protects and fosters Haida culture by reaffirming our traditions and beliefs, encouraging artistic expression, and serving as a keeper of all that we are. Kay Llnagaay is a place for the Haida voice to be heard. The Haida Gwaii Museum opened in 1976 and continues to build an international reputation for showcasing Haida historical and contemporary art, All-Island artists and an outstanding collection of objects, artifacts and scientific material culture.
Agate Beach at Naikoon Provincial Park
Imagine a shore filled with agates. The sounded shells that pick up the light, in their translucent, varying colours, set against the backdrop of the old growth forest. If you’re camping, there’s a campsite nearby, no reservations available.
Explore Old Masset
Old Masset is one of the few remaining Haida Villages. As a cultural centre you can experience the architectural and artistic legacy of the Haida People. This is where we grew up walking past on the way to the beach, cycling down the dirt roads where the tree cover was so heavy the sun felt like it disappeared.
